The new era opened in Gucci and Etro, Emporio Armani taking flight, and Prada, which put the basic principles of fashion on the table… Milan Fashion Week, which spanned several days, was short but full of innovations…
We are turning our route to Milan Fashion Week before Paris Fashion Week, which will start with a few fashion shows today. After Pitti Uomo’s seminal presentations in Florence, Milan was surprisingly quiet this time. Despite the innovations on the horizon, the cheers and crowd created by the K-Pop group ENHYPEN in front of the Prada fashion show, almost like the debut of stadium concerts! The only move that can be made to make a fashion show sound today is to invite a K-Pop idol.
Let’s start with the most talked about this season: each star of the “White Lotus” cast was at a different fashion show in Milan. Theo James was first in Giorgio Armani, Will Sharpe was in Emporio Armani, Sabrina Impacciatore was first in JW Anderson, together with Italian director Luca Guadagnino…
Sensual Fashion
Coming back to the collections… The dominance of feminine silhouettes referring to fluid gender roles that we have been accustomed to seeing for the last few seasons continued. As we saw at Fendi and Dolce&Gabbana fashion shows… Even though skirts and dresses are back on the shelves for now, the fact that the designers focused on was sometimes sensual tailoring skills that reveal the body. Dolce&Gabbana featured deep-cut blouses, see-through shirts and corsets. At Fendi, Silvia Venturini took Fendi back to the 70s and disco days. Disco is already having an impact on all creative industries, from music to fashion, after the pandemic. With the songs of Giorgio Moroder and Donna Summer flowing in the background, we saw one-shoulder asymmetrical and glittery tops. Fendi was balancing between masculine and feminine energy. But the star of the fashion show was undoubtedly baguette-shaped bags and umbrellas…
Philosophy of Fashion
If we go back to Dolce&Gabbana once again… The duo, which is not approved by the new generation members of the fashion world today, nevertheless managed to garner praise with this collection and get a passing grade years later. The names of his collections were “Essence”. They approached fashion from a philosophical point of view and went down to the foundations of Italian fashion, Dolce & Gabbana. Stefano and Domenico weren’t the only couples with a philosophical approach to fashion, but under the rising/lowering ceiling during the fashion show at Fondazione Prada on Sunday, Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons invited guests to talk about the outfits. “Let’s Talk About Clothes” was the name of the collection. Since the day they started to build Prada’s vision together, the duo started to show a closer and minimal look to clothes by focusing on the most basic parts of fashion. This collection was no different from the previous ones. High collars, exposed blazers and coats, puffer coats and puffer singlets were displayed under the art deco chandeliers. In notes shared after the show, Miuccia said: “The most honest thing we could do was make designs that could benefit consumers.”
