Konstantin Chaykin: A Russian Watchmaker
From Catherine the Great to Joseph Stalin, Russia carries a horological legacy uniquely its own. Among its most renowned contemporary watchmakers is Konstantin Chaykin.
At the 2024 Geneva Watch Days, Konstantin Chaykin unveiled the world’s thinnest mechanical watch, cementing his place as one of the leading figures in Russian watchmaking. Since 2003, the independent watchmaker has been crafting unconventional and highly complicated timepieces under his eponymous brand. Among his most celebrated creations are the “Joker” watches, whose dials evoke a pair of eyes and a wide grin. One of these Joker models earned the “Audacity Prize” at the 2018 GPHG. These playful designs form the backbone of Chaykin’s Wristmons collection, which sits alongside pieces inspired by classical art and outer space in his portfolio.
In a interview, Chaykin notes that many cultures have a historical connection to watchmaking—and Russia is no exception. He points to the reign of Catherine the Great (1729–1796) as an important starting point for Russian horology. In that era, remarkable table clocks were produced, and more than 20 Russian watchmakers achieved prominence. However, the true boom in Russian watchmaking came during the Soviet period, particularly under Joseph Stalin. The First State Watch Factory, founded in 1930, produced the timepiece worn by Yuri Gagarin on his historic journey into space. Chaykin notes that, at its height, the Soviet watch industry boasted 19 factories producing over 40 million watches annually. These, however, were never part of the haute horlogerie segment; they were practical, utilitarian timepieces designed for military and everyday use.
Back to Chaykin’s own work. A lifelong sketch artist, he channels his creativity into both the mechanical and aesthetic aspects of his watches. The Wristmons models—designed with eyes, noses, and mouths integrated into their dials—demand intricate technical solutions as well as artistic flair. Chaykin also collaborates with other watchmakers, with his partnerships with Louis Erard and Chinese brand Behrens among the most notable. The latter began in 2022 with the Behrens x Konstantin Chaykin Ref. BHR028, and this summer the duo returns with a new series: the Behrens x Konstantin Chaykin Kremlin Edition.
Housed in a 42 mm carbon-fiber composite case, the Kremlin Edition features a dial recalling the Joker’s expressive face. Rotating discs display the hours and minutes, doubling as the character’s “eyes,” while the seconds hand—shaped like a spade in Behrens style—moves within a window at 6 o’clock, resembling a mischievous grin.
Red accents appear both on the dial base and in the seconds hand, complemented by a red rubber strap for a bold finish. Inside, the automatic Sellita SW200 calibre beats at 28,800 vph, offering a 38-hour power reserve.
