The Story of Kari Voutilainen and Caliber 135-O
When the craftsmanship of one of the greatest living watchmakers, Kari Voutilainen, meets the legendary performance of the Caliber 135-O, one of the rarest timepieces in horological history emerged in recent years.
Kari Voutilainen, one of the greatest living watchmakers, often says that dials are the face of a watch—they should enhance its beauty and add a pleasant character. Having signed hundreds of watches to date, the master has also revived dozens of vintage timepieces. Yet his story differs from many watchmakers we know. For instance, he was born not in Switzerland—the heart of horology—but in Finland. His passion for watchmaking began in childhood while spending time at a family friend’s watch shop. After finishing high school there, the young Voutilainen moved to Helsinki to pursue formal watchmaking education.
After completing his training in Helsinki in 1986, Voutilainen worked for two years at a watch shop in Kemi. Seeking further education, he left Kemi for Neuchâtel, where his story would continue in the heart of Swiss watchmaking. Thanks to his talent and passion, he crossed paths first with Michel Parmigiani and later with another master, Charles Meylan. Combining his passion with the expertise gained from these masters, he began designing watches under his own name in 2002. Since then, he has been creating timepieces in his workshop in Val-de-Travers, Neuchâtel. Producing around 60 watches per year, the Finnish master occasionally collaborates with other brands.
The Kari Voutilainen Touch on Caliber 135-O
One of the watches to bear Voutilainen’s hand is the Zenith Caliber 135 Observatoire, produced in collaboration with Phillips. It is rare for an auction house to produce a new watch series; however, in 2022, Zenith and Phillips teamed up to design a new series using original components of the brand’s famed Caliber 135-O. Manufactured in the 1950s, Caliber 135 won over 230 chronometer prizes, setting a record in horological history. The Zenith Caliber 135 Observatoire watches incorporated restored original components of the Caliber 135-O (one of two versions of Caliber 135) produced between 1950 and 1954. These watches were offered at Phillips auction for CHF 132,900 each and sold quickly due to high demand.
Voutilainen and his team in Neuchâtel undertook both the restoration of the existing caliber components and the design of the watches. Presented in a simple yet vintage aesthetic, the black dials were decorated with guilloché engraving. Hour markers were placed on a herringbone-patterned chapter ring around the dial’s periphery, referencing the past while embracing modern aesthetics. In addition to the hour and minute hands, the watches feature a small seconds sub-dial at 6 o’clock, which also displays the watch’s serial number.
In an interview, Voutilainen explained that designing these watches carries immense responsibility, as each timepiece uses a single mechanism—unlike mass-produced watches with hundreds of spare parts. Everything must be executed correctly the first time. Calibers originally produced in the 1950s for chronometer competitions lacked decorative finishing; however, Voutilainen and his team adorned the restored movements with delicate hand-finishing. Chamfering was applied to the bridges, and the mechanical beauty is showcased through a display case back.
In November of the same year, Phillips announced a one-of-a-kind watch for auction: the Zenith Caliber 135-Observatoire Unique Piece. This watch features a restored caliber that earned the highest score at the Neuchâtel Observatory in 1953. The movement operates at 18,000 VpH and offers a 40-hour power reserve.
The design of this singular piece also differs from the main series. It was crafted from a special material called “niobium,” rarely used in watchmaking. Named after Niobe, daughter of Tantalus in Greek mythology, niobium is as hard as titanium and gives the case a bright, light gray appearance. The 38 mm case is water-resistant up to 3 bar.
The salmon-colored dial closely resembles the main series. The hands are gold-plated, and the hour markers feature German silver plating. At the top of the dial, there is a reference to the Neuchâtel Observatory.
The Zenith Caliber 135-Observatoire Unique Piece sold for CHF 315,000 at the November auction that year. All proceeds were donated to the Susan G. Komen Foundation for breast cancer research, allowing Zenith’s star to shine once more, illuminating other stars in the sky.
