Most Iconic Watches of Zenith History
Let’s take a closer look at the iconic watches in Zenith’s history and once again witness the captivating stories of haute horlogerie.
Every dial tells a story. An enamel dial crafted by the hands of a master artisan reminds us that handcrafting is an art that will never fade. Watching the hands chase each other across the dial or admiring the mesmerizing beauty of the mechanism through an open caseback… these moments show every watch enthusiast the joy of measuring time not from a digital screen, but still from a wristwatch.
For instance, the star on Zenith’s dials reminds us of the success stories of those who aim for the highest point in the sky. When Georges Favre-Jacot, the brand’s founder, set out 160 years ago to create the most precise wristwatch in the world, he marked the beginning of these success stories. Throughout Zenith’s nearly two-century journey, many more have been written. Looking back at this long history, we are greeted by iconic models that have left their mark on horology. Let’s take a closer look at Zenith’s legendary watches and once again witness the fascinating stories of haute horlogerie.
A Dive Watch from 1969: A364
In 1969, Zenith introduced not only its unforgettable El Primero caliber but also the iconic dive watch A3648. As one of the most successful dive watches produced that year, the A3648 offered water resistance up to 600 meters. With its 14-sided bezel and orange accents on the bezel and dial, this steel dive watch stood out — and was brought back to life at Watches and Wonders 2024. The new Defy Revival A3648, inspired by this famous model, was unveiled at the same fair, alongside Defy Extreme models that also drew inspiration from the A3648.
The new Defy Revival models are powered by the Elite 670 caliber. This year, both the Defy Extreme Diver and Defy Revival Diver collections were expanded with new models dominated by yellow tones, all housed in titanium cases. Unlike last year’s orange-accented versions, the new models feature yellow details: the Defy Revival’s bezel and dial, and the Defy Extreme Diver’s dial ring are designed in yellow.
Towards the Millennium: Chronomaster
In 1994, Zenith unveiled the Chronomaster collection, once again showcasing its technical mastery and expertise in the chronograph segment. The collection, which became the main line for the El Primero movement, drew its design language from the earliest El Primero-powered models. The iconic design featuring three differently colored sub-dials has reappeared over the years with fresh faces.
In 2021, the Chronomaster Sport series joined the collection — and that same year, it won the “Chronograph of the Year” award at the GPHG. Over time, the Chronomaster line has evolved with various creative touches, such as the 2023 model featuring a black dial for the first time. One of the latest examples is the Chronomaster Sport Meteorite, introduced this summer with a striking meteorite dial.
The Star in the Sky: Pilot Watches
Although Zenith is often associated with its achievements in the chronograph segment, its legacy in pilot watches is equally profound. As the second brand in horological history to produce wristwatches for pilots, Zenith is also the only brand legally allowed to use the word “Pilot” on its watches today. The company patented the French term “Pilote” in 1888 and the English “Pilot” in 1904, later introducing a model named “Pilot” in 1957.
While changes in management and shifting focus to other segments led to a pause in pilot watch production, the Pilot Montre d’Aéronef Type 20, introduced in 2012, revived the series. With its large 57.5 mm case, the model paid homage to early aviation timepieces.
In 2015, Zenith celebrated its 150th anniversary with the Pilot Type 20 Hommage à Louis Blériot models. Today, the Pilot family includes models such as the Pilot Automatic and Pilot Big Date Flyback, featuring the collection’s signature horizontal dials and minimalist design language. One of the latest models is the Pilot Big Date Flyback 160th Anniversary, powered by the El Primero 3652, an enhanced version of the brand’s legendary movement.
Recently, Zenith CEO Benoit de Clerck told Saatolog that the brand’s DNA lies in its heritage-driven innovations and bold design philosophy. Looking back at its history—from the 14-sided orange-bezel dive watch introduced in 1969 to the world’s first integrated automatic chronograph caliber, El Primero—every innovation reinforces this definition. Zenith continues to shine at the highest point of the sky, fueled by founder Favre-Jacot’s determination and Charles Vermot’s unwavering belief, who once saved the El Primero parts by hiding them in the factory’s attic.
