The New Zenith DEFY Chronograph USM
What would a watch look like if Zenith had teamed up with a furniture brand in the 1960s? The first model that likely comes to mind is the Defy, introduced by Zenith in 1969. With its octagonal case and fourteen-sided bezel, the Defy was an exceptional design that could seamlessly align with the futuristic design trends of the 1960s. Zenith seemed to explore this very question by collaborating with Swiss design brand USM Modular Furniture to create a capsule collection: the Defy Chronograph USM.
The 1960s marked a defining era for both brands. Zenith introduced its groundbreaking El Primero caliber and the Defy model before the decade ended, while USM Modular Furniture created designs that would become iconic symbols of modern design. For these reasons, the collaboration focused on revisiting the 1960s—a period representing a milestone in both brands’ histories—reinterpreting the forms and functions of that era in a capsule collection.
The collection’s starting point was the question: “What would these two Swiss craftsmanship icons have created if they had collaborated in that period?” Unsurprisingly, the 1969 Zenith Defy model served as the foundation. Its sharp-angled case, octagonal silhouette, and fourteen-sided bezel reflected geometric forms reminiscent of USM’s bold design language.
Design Cues from USM
The design codes of the Defy Chronograph USM were inspired by USM Haller, the brand’s renowned furniture design. The collection features dials in yellow, green, blue, and orange—referencing USM’s signature colors—accompanied by three nested silver sub-dials. The rhodium-plated sub-dials with an “azure” pattern further echo USM’s design aesthetic. Square-shaped hour markers add depth to the watch’s design. The bracelet draws inspiration from the Gay Frères bracelet created for the 1969 Defy model.
A subtle detail of the watch is the small circular tip on the chronograph seconds hand. Filled with Super-LumiNova, this tiny circle is only visible in low light and serves as a nod to the small round handles on USM Haller furniture panels.
The Defy Chronograph USM is powered by the El Primero 400 caliber, developed as a successor to the iconic El Primero 3019 PHC. In addition to hour, minute, and second indications, the movement offers small seconds, chronograph, and date functions, with a power reserve of 50 hours.
Through the transparent case back, the mechanical beauty of the El Primero caliber—adorned with blue screws—can be admired. Both brands’ logos are engraved on the movement, celebrating the collaboration.
As a capsule collection, the Defy Chronograph USM watches come with a special watch box and a USM product. For further details, visit Zenith’s official website.
