Heritage once again serves as a source of inspiration as Panerai dives into the depths of its history, revisiting the 1960s for its new PAM01731 and PAM01732 models.
Springtime in the watch world means one thing above all: Watches and Wonders, the industry’s largest annual showcase and, naturally, the stage for hundreds of new releases. Each year, the fair becomes the focal point of discussions that continue throughout the months ahead, setting the tone for emerging horological trends. Yet beyond the watches themselves, another aspect consistently captures attention: the remarkable booth designs. Brands compete not only with their novelties but also with immersive presentations that often resemble large-scale art installations. This year, Panerai left an unforgettable mark at Watches and Wonders 2026 with precisely such a concept.
At the heart of the Panerai booth stood a reinterpretation of the military diving tank originally designed by the brand in 1966 for training exercises at the COMSUBIN naval base. Conceived as a glass water tank filled with water, the installation invited visitors through a small hatch in one corner, where Panerai’s latest creations awaited beneath shimmering blue reflections. Yet the brand’s tribute to its heritage did not end with this striking display. Panerai also unveiled the PAM01731 and PAM01732, both inspired by a vintage model produced during the 1960s.
Watch enthusiasts know Panerai’s deep-rooted connection to the naval world. The Luminor collection, today one of the brand’s most iconic lines, was produced exclusively for military use until the 1990s, only becoming available for civilians in 1993. The Marina Militare Ref. 6152/1, which inspired the models featured here, was likewise developed for naval operations.
The Crown Moves to the Other Side
One of the heritage-inspired novelties, the Luminor Destro PAM01732, arrives in a 44 mm stainless steel case. The polished surfaces are paired with Panerai’s iconic crown-protecting bridge, though this time positioned in an unexpected place: the left side of the case. Referred to by the brand as the “Destro” configuration, this arrangement allowed military divers to wear the watch on the right wrist while adjusting the winding crown with the left hand. The result was a more practical and ergonomic tool underwater. The new Luminor Destro pays tribute to this historic layout with a design language that feels unmistakably Panerai.
“Panerai’s signature crown-protecting locking mechanism enhances both water resistance and impact protection.”
The deep blue dial of the Luminor Destro displays only the hours and minutes. The small seconds sub dial, frequently seen on Luminor models, has been intentionally omitted here to remain faithful to the functionality of the original reference. The Arabic numerals at 12, 3, 6 and 9, along with the baton markers and hands, appear in a dark beige tone that reinforces the watch’s vintage character. A light brown leather strap further accentuates the retro aesthetic, while a blue rubber strap is also offered for collectors seeking a sportier look.
A Tobacco-Coloured Dial
Panerai’s vintage-inspired narrative continues with another new release, the Luminor PAM01731. Designed with a sandwich dial construction featuring two superimposed plates for enhanced legibility in all lighting conditions, the dial is presented in a warm tobacco hue. While the overall design language closely mirrors that of the PAM01732, this model incorporates a small seconds display at 9 o’clock.
Housed in a 44 mm stainless-steel case, the Luminor PAM01731 offers water resistance up to 300 metres. The finishing touch comes in the form of a dark brown calfskin strap, although a brown rubber alternative is also included.
Both the PAM01731 and PAM01732 are powered by the hand-wound caliber P.6000, first introduced by the brand in 2018. Delivering a 72-hour power reserve, the movement can be admired through the sapphire case back of each watch.
For those who were unable to attend the fair this year, we have included a few glimpses of the mesmerising tank installation below offering a closer look at this horological journey beneath the blue waters. And for those tempted to dive even deeper, Panerai’s latest creations await as faithful companions on the wrist.
