Watches and Wonders 2023: The First Age of Chronograph

At Watches & Wonders Fair 2023, magnificent chronographs that are more beautiful than the other, technically impressive or that went down in history because they were the first were introduced.

Previously, we wrote about the Tentagraph SLGC001, which is a first for Grand Seiko and excites chronograph fans with its high technical features, and we also introduced the stylish Zenith Pilot Big Date Flyback and the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona, one of the most famous chronographs celebrating its 60th anniversary, on our site. But I think that so many beautiful and striking chronographs have been announced that are worth mentioning that it is necessary to look at the best of them as a whole.

A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus Chronograph

Undoubtedly, one of the biggest news of Watches & Wonders 2023 was the announcement of A. Lange & Söhne’s first self-winding chronograph after 6 years of development. The Odysseus Chronograph, with a diameter of 42.5 mm, has a magnificent movement called the newly developed caliber L156.1 Datomatic, which looks plain on the dial face but attracts attention with its intricate structure consisting of 516 components in the background. The large red chronograph hand on the dial counts the seconds, while the white counts the minutes. The dial also features date and day windows and a small seconds sub-dial. The new automatic chronograph, the masterwork of A. Lange & Söhne, will be limited to 100 pieces.

Hermès H08 Monopusher Chronograph

Another first came from the Hermès: for the first time, a watch with a chronograph function has been added to the Philippe Delhotal-designed H08 collection. The single-button Hermès chronograph’s 41 × 41 mm pillow-shaped case (actually measuring 41.2 mm to 40.7 mm) molded from a multi-layer composite block containing carbon fiber and graphene is covered with black DLC. The watch, which has titanium bezel, is a stylish and sporty watch with a textured and flat tone dial that looks vibrant with orange accents. The 30-minute chronograph recording sub-dial is on the left, and the seconds sub-dial is on the right, dominated by the large orange chronograph seconds hand. There is also a date window between 4 and 5 o’clock.

Patek Philippe Pilot Travel Time Chronograph

Patek Philippe also added a chronograph to its Calatrava Pilot Travel Time collection for the first time this year. The new pilot chronograph with a white gold case is currently available in two colors, gray-blue and khaki green. The reversible chronograph model, which can measure 60 minutes in total, has a diameter of 42 mm.

Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41

At Watches & Wonders, IWC Schaffhausen announced its first 41 mm diameter ceramic pilot chronographs, which are considered to be more ergonomic, and the new Oceana color. In addition, the Chronograph 41 model is offered for the first time in a rose gold case.

Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 TOP GUN Oceana

Collaboration with Pantone® for the unique color of the blue ceramic case of the Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 TOP GUN “Oceana”.

Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 TOP GUN

This watch, IWC’s first black ceramic pilot’s chronograph model, was launched with a diameter of 41 mm. Since 2007, IWC Top Gun series watches have been using black zirconium oxide ceramics with high resistance to heat and wear. The crown, buttons and case back are made of titanium.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Chronograph

The Reverso is the first of its kind, which can be easily flipped over since it is a 1931 slide. The Reverso Tribute Chronograph, on the other hand, is a skeleton watch that retains the basic features of the first watch, but has an extremely plain watch on one side, a chronograph with a retrograde minute counter on the reverse, and a second time display, one with a rose gold case and the other with a steel case. The rectangular case measurer 49.4 mm x 29.9mm and thin at 11.14mm. Meanwhile, the movement named Caliber 860 is a magnificent work of art, consisting of 300 components that move in opposite directions, one at the front and the other at the back, to show the minutes and time on both faces simultaneously.

TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph

It is one of the models reinterpreted to celebrate the 60th anniversary of the now classic 1963 Carrera design. The TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph is a speedometer born for racing. The watch, which draws attention to the red chronograph hands, has two dial options, one blue and the other black. Cased in stainless steel, both watches are 42mm in diameter and feature vibrant orange and red stripes reminiscent of classic race car speedometers.

TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Glassbox

This model owes the “Glassbox” inscription in its name to the watch’s structure, which was inspired by the famous domed glass design of the 1970s. This model also has two dial options, blue and black.

TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon

TAG Heuer has renewed a model decorated with a top-class complication such as the tourbillon with the domed crystal glass found in the old Carrera models.

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