Famous for its legendary seafood and serene beaches, Leros is a hidden gem whose beauty is only now being truly appreciated. With this Leros travel guide at your fingertips, get ready to enjoy a vacation like no other.
There are countless reasons why those weary of the hustle and bustle of city life choose a Greek island for their getaway. Chief among them is the peaceful and rejuvenating atmosphere these islands offer—far from the crowds and noise—creating the perfect setting to relax and unwind. Whether you’re stretched out on a quiet beach, savoring a mouthwatering meal, or simply soaking in the natural beauty around you, the Greek islands invite you to slow down and live in the moment. Leros, a charming island that has gained popularity in recent years and now offers the convenience of a visa on arrival, delivers this experience to the fullest. Once known as İleryoz during the Ottoman era, Leros is part of the Dodecanese archipelago and is an ideal destination for a tranquil summer holiday. So, how does one discover its magic? Let’s set off on this adventure together.
On a breezy day, we board a ferry from Bodrum to Kos—a quick 30-minute ride—followed by a 1.5-hour boat trip to Leros. Public transportation on the island is limited, so we rent a car as soon as we arrive and hit the road, eager to explore every corner of this peaceful paradise.
The history of Leros, one of the islands in the Dodecanese (Twelve Islands) group, stretches back to the Neolithic era. While the island is home to structures dating from the Byzantine period, its most captivating historical chapters were written during the First and Second World Wars. Just outside the settlement of Lakki, accessible by a shaded forest path, the Merikia Tunnel War Museum brings this era to life in vivid detail. Between 1912 and 1943, Leros was under Italian occupation and transformed into a significant military base. Thanks to its natural harbor, the island became the regional headquarters of the Italian navy. The underground tunnels that now house the museum were originally constructed during this period as part of the island’s defense infrastructure. In 1943, Leros was occupied by German forces. Although a resistance effort was mounted during the Battle of Leros, which began on November 11, 1943, the island ultimately succumbed. Following Germany’s defeat in World War II, the Dodecanese Islands were returned to Greece.
The influence of the Italian occupation is most prominently visible in the Lakki area, which was built entirely from scratch by the Italians. While the rest of the island welcomes visitors with narrow lanes and traditional whitewashed houses, Lakki offers a different atmosphere altogether. Wide streets open up toward a harbor filled with boats and sailboats, and the architecture takes on warm yellow and earthy tones. As you make your way back from the museum to Lakki, you’ll likely spot a line of parked cars along the coast. This is where you’ll find Lime Beach Bar—a private beach club that’s perfect for a refreshing swim and a relaxing break by the sea.
Next on your itinerary are the iconic windmills lining the road to the castle—symbols of Leros. The oldest among them dates to the 17th century, while the newest is from the 19th century. One of these windmills, perched above Panteli Bay with a stunning panoramic view, has been converted into a traditional Leros house museum and is a must-visit. The ground floor showcases tools from ancient times, along with traditional men’s and women’s clothing and intricate embroidery. The upper floor features a recreated bedroom, and the entire museum bears a striking resemblance to traditional Turkish houses, subtly underscoring the deep cultural connections between the two regions. But don’t assume your visit ends when the museum closes at noon. As the day winds down and the sky begins to glow with sunset colors, you’ll want to return—because Harris Bar will be waiting for you.
Nestled between two windmills, this cocktail bar has quickly become one of the island’s most beloved spots. Opened just three years ago, it is run by Harris, a former pastry chef who once managed his family’s bakery. When one of the windmills was restored to working condition, Harris saw the perfect opportunity to create a venue where visitors could enjoy exceptional cocktails paired with the island’s sweeping vistas. And what a view it is: to the north, you can gaze upon the village of Platanos, its iconic windmills, and the castle; to the south, the island of Kalymnos appears on the horizon; to the west, Panteli village and the harbor of Lakki stretch out before you; and to the east, the Turkish coastline glimmers in the distance. Enjoy your drink and a selection of tasty snacks as the sun sets and the sky turns golden.
Another place where you can delve deeper into Leros’s layered past is the Bellenis Tower, located near Alinda Beach. With its striking architecture and expansive garden, Bellenis Tower was built between 1925 and 1927 as a summer residence for Parissis Bellenis, a wealthy island resident. During World War II, the building was commandeered as a hospital for the German army under the orders of General Müller. Today, it houses a museum. On the first floor, visitors can explore exhibits that shed light on a lesser-known chapter of Leros’s history: the lives and artistic works of political exiles once sent to the island.
Nicknamed the “Island of Exiles,” Leros was designated by the Greek state as a place of banishment, where political prisoners were sent under the guise of “treatment.” Military barracks built during the interwar period were repurposed during the post-war junta years into indoctrination centers, psychiatric facilities, and prison cells. One of the exiled artists featured in the museum is Kyriakos Tsarikis, a writer and painter who lived on the island between 1967 and 1974. His works reflect the solitude and emotional turmoil he endured during his confinement. Beyond the exhibits on medical and military equipment used during the war and displays about Leros’s wealthy families, don’t forget to stop by the small printing press museum nestled in the garden.
As an Aegean destination, Leros caters not only to culture and history lovers but also to sunseekers drawn to the sea. The island is dotted with picturesque villages, each with its own distinct charm. Among them, Alinda stands out—not only for being home to the Bellenis Tower but also for its reputation as one of the island’s most popular bays. Here, visitors will find a range of cozy accommodations and seaside restaurants just steps from the shore. Whether you’re indulging in gourmet meals by the water or diving into the calm, azure sea to escape the summer heat, Alinda offers the perfect setting. In fact, it’s easy to spend your entire vacation here without feeling the need to venture elsewhere—returning home fully relaxed and recharged.
Wondering where to eat in Alinda? Just ask a local, and they’ll unanimously recommend Prima & Aleproma. This quirky and delightful restaurant is helmed by Antonis, who will personally guide you through the day’s best offerings. Here, you can enjoy perfectly prepared local seafood—octopus, shrimp, squid—served right by the sea, in true Leros fashion.
Another must-visit destination on Leros is Agia Marina, widely regarded as the island’s heart and cultural hub. With its whitewashed buildings and picturesque harbor, Agia Marina has evolved into the island’s largest settlement over the years. Though it’s not ideal for swimming, a stroll along its cobblestone streets—paired with a morning coffee or an evening drink—quickly becomes part of your daily rhythm. The town is renowned for its neoclassical mansions bearing Egyptian influences, traditional island houses, courtyards brimming with vibrant bougainvillea, warm earth-toned façades, and ornate white-framed windows—features that beautifully capture Leros’s architectural elegance. As you wander, you’ll come across the Archaeological Museum, which offers a rich overview of the island’s history. From the harbor, you can also hop on a boat for a day trip to nearby Lipsi Island and other charming islets. Right across from the harbor, stop at To Paradosiako, the island’s most beloved pastry shop, to indulge in a traditional Greek dessert—an experience that captures the sweet soul of Leros.
To immerse yourself in traditional island life, head to the nearby village of Panteli, where the scent of blooming bougainvillea fills the air and local fishermen still head out with their nets at dawn. Panteli Beach, located right by the village, is a favorite among families with children, thanks to its shallow, calm waters. A short drive north brings you to Partheni Bay, near the airport. Hidden just behind the bay is a lesser-known treasure: the Church of Agia Matrona-Kioura. Within its modest walls are striking frescoes and artworks created by political prisoners who were exiled to the island during the military dictatorship of the Second Hellenic Republic. In one particularly poignant fresco, the Last Supper is depicted in an army mess hall, with Jesus portrayed as the most recent exile. Among the political prisoners once held here was Yiannis Ritsos, one of Greece’s most celebrated poets, whose powerful verses inspired composer Mikis Theodorakis.
After exploring Partheni, make your way 2–3 kilometers inland to the Hatzidakis vineyard, a family-run enterprise with deep local roots. The Chatzidakis family, once vegetable farmers, turned to winemaking in 2000. Today, they produce red wines from Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, and whites from Malagouzia and Assyrtiko—native grape varieties from northern Greece. Their 12-acre vineyard is nestled among hills scented with wild herbs like oregano, which impart a distinct character to the wines. Maria, the matriarch of the family, prepares delicious homemade dishes for those who come to taste the wines. You’ll find Hatzidakis wines proudly featured on the menus of many local restaurants—including Tis Kakomoiras, a standout located just above Agia Marina.
Chef and owner Christos Boutsis opened Tis Kakomoiras after working in hospitality and completing culinary school. The restaurant serves both breakfast and dinner, offering stunning sea views, impressively quick service, and dishes that reflect creativity and care. Among its highlights is the award-winning en coulis salad—Boutsis’ own creation that earned praise on Greece’s Masterchef. With ingredients like olive paste, capers, and tomato jam, the dish is a celebration of bold yet harmonious flavors. For something truly memorable, try the shrimp wrapped in crispy kadayif, finished with a drizzle of aromatic garlic oil—an exquisite taste of Leros on a plate.
Another tavern that instantly comes to mind when thinking of Leros is Mylos By The Sea, a beloved dining spot that has become something of a social media sensation thanks to its stunning windmill backdrop. Opened in 2000, Mylos is a family-run establishment that now attracts loyal visitors from around the globe, earning its place as a must-visit gourmet destination on the island. The menu reflects both creativity and tradition, featuring standout dishes such as spinach pie, parrotfish carpaccio, and ravioli filled with eggplant and shiitake mushrooms—all of which affirm Mylos’s reputation for culinary excellence. For dessert, don’t miss their take on Leros’s signature sweet, the pougi: delicate layers of dough filled with bitter almond and mandarin orange, crafted in Mylos’s own unique style.
After several enriching days exploring Leros’s history, culture, and cuisine, we find ourselves unwinding at Alinda Beach. Heading north from Alinda, we arrive at Dio Liskaria, one of the island’s most iconic beaches—especially loved by younger crowds. A cold beer in hand, toes in the sand, and the shimmering clarity of the Aegean in front of you… What more could anyone ask for from a Greek island escape? As one local we spoke to so perfectly put it, “Once you visit Leros, you leave your heart here and return again.” And that’s exactly what we’ll be doing.
HOW TO GET THERE
You can reach the island either by ferry via Bodrum with a transfer in Kos or by plane via Athens. For ferry services from Bodrum center or Turgutreis to Kos, visit feribotlines.com. To travel from Kos to Leros, check Dodekanisos Seaways at 12ne.gr.
ON THE ISLAND
Since public transportation on Leros is very limited, renting a motorcycle, car, or bicycle is highly recommended to reach various coves and key locations. For a sustainable option, you can rent electric bicycles from the company GreenBike Me.
WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK
Tis Kakomoiras
This small but delightful restaurant in Agia Marina offers more than just a scenic location. Owner and chef Christos Boutsis worked in the hospitality industry before graduating from culinary school and opening Tis Kakomoiras, which serves both breakfast and dinner. Start your morning on the breezy terrace with a cold coffee and savory ham-and-egg pancakes, or go sweet with Oreo, chocolate sauce, and strawberry pancakes. For dinner, Boutsis brings the same creative flair—try the carpaccio made with fresh orange and lime juice.
Mylos By The Sea
This is the island’s most popular tavern, famed for its picturesque windmill view. The menu features outstanding seafood dishes, including parrotfish ceviche, shrimp carpaccio, and marinated yellowtail. For dessert, don’t miss their playful take on tiramisu, served in a flower pot.
Harris Bar
Set inside one of the island’s iconic windmills on the road to the castle, Harris Bar boasts incredible views of Panteli and an excellent cocktail menu. In the evenings, it draws crowds eager to sip drinks as the sun sets. Try the Kiwi Cooler, made with fresh kiwi and elderflower juice, or the Mastiha Mule, featuring fragrant mastic liqueur.
Prima & Aneplora
Located right on Alinda Beach, this seafood restaurant offers delicious meze and freshly caught fish, served just steps from the sea. Though known for his tough exterior, owner Antonis has earned locals’ praise for his dedication to flavor and quality. Trust his recommendations and order appetizers made from the freshest seasonal ingredients.
Theokis Bistro Restaurant
Also located in Alinda Bay, this charming bistro is a great place to start your day with a coffee by the sea. The breakfast menu includes a variety of options—from Greek-style menemen to pancakes and scrambled eggs. During the summer season, Theokis also hosts live music twice a week in the evenings.
WHERE TO STAY
Tony’s Rooms
Situated along Alinda Beach, these budget-friendly studio apartments are run by a warm, welcoming family. A supermarket and car rental service are located just below. Each apartment includes a kitchen with an oven, stove, refrigerator, and even a washing machine. Options include sea- or garden-view units. Nightly rates start at €60.
Alea Mare Hotel
Located in Alinda, Alea Mare Hotel combines comfort with a prime location. Perks include balconies with sea or garden views, breakfast served on the terrace, complimentary Wi-Fi, and satellite TV. Double rooms with sea views start at €80 per night.
Asterias
Just 100 meters from Panteli Beach, Asterias offers elegantly designed studio rooms in calming blue and white tones. Spacious interiors, sea-view balconies, and attentive staff create a thoughtful, relaxing stay. The staircase leading directly to the beach is an added bonus. Studio apartments start at €95 per night.
TIPS
Lakki Area
One of the most unique and visually striking parts of Leros is the Lakki district, renowned for its distinctive architecture influenced by Italian design. During Italy’s occupation of the Dodecanese in the early 20th century, Lakki was developed as a planned community by Italian architects, resulting in an aesthetic that sharply contrasts with typical Greek island settlements. Wide boulevards, expansive squares, and Art Deco buildings define the area, giving Lakki a nostalgic and cinematic charm. A midday stroll through its quieter streets can feel like wandering through a forgotten Italian seaside town. Meanwhile, the Lakki marina is bustling, home to a mix of commercial vessels and private yachts.
Leros War Museum
The Leros War Museum offers a detailed and moving account of the island’s involvement in World War II, particularly during the pivotal Battle of Leros. Located inside a former military tunnel, the museum showcases a wide array of artifacts, documents, photographs, and weaponry from the war era. Through these exhibits, visitors gain insight into the difficult conditions faced by the island’s residents and their courageous resistance against occupying forces between September and November 1943. The museum serves as a powerful tribute to the islanders’ resilience and honors the lives lost during this turbulent chapter of history.
Hatzidakis Winery
Given that Greece boasts a winemaking tradition stretching back millennia, visiting a local, family-run winery on Leros is an experience not to be missed. Located in the northern part of the island, Hatzidakis Winery welcomes guests to tour its vineyard and production areas. There, George and Maria Chatzidakis offer tastings of their signature wines—crafted from grape varieties like Assyrtiko and Malagouzia—alongside a delicious mezze platter prepared with local ingredients. Before you leave, you’ll likely want to take home a bottle or two as a flavorful souvenir. More information is available at leroswines.gr.
World War II Shipwrecks
After Normandy, Leros is said to have the highest concentration of World War II shipwrecks in the world, making it a dream destination for scuba diving enthusiasts. With guided dives led by certified professionals, you can explore this extraordinary underwater museum and come face-to-face with history. The dive sites include the sunken remains of the Queen Olga destroyer, German aircraft, warships, torpedo nets, and a variety of other submerged artifacts—each telling its own silent story from the depths of the past.
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