From the Gérald Genta-designed King Midas to the Prince Brancard known as the “doctor’s watch,” discover the most extraordinary Rolex watches ever made.
Think of a Rolex watch: Daytona, Day-Date, Submariner, or Oyster Perpetual. One of these models probably comes to mind immediately. With its groundbreaking innovations in watchmaking, every Rolex collection enjoys worldwide recognition and a reputation that transcends borders. The brand can be found on the wrists of movie stars, athletes, and even heads of state. But how familiar are you with a gold Rolex housed in a rectangular case? Or a Rolex watch fitted with a gold bracelet composed of oversized circular links?
Between the 1950s and the 1970s, alongside the models that would eventually become icons, Rolex produced a number of unconventional designs distinguished by their cases, dials, and, in some instances, their bracelets. The “Cocktail” watches produced from the 1950s through the 1970s and the substantial Montre de Dame Or models are among the most notable examples. Rolex’s archives are also home to dozens of rare references featuring stone dials, Arabic numerals, and rectangular-cased watches known as the “Doctor’s Watch.”
Rolex Prince Brancard (Ref. 971)
With its rectangular case that gently flares outward and its small seconds display positioned at 6 o’clock, the Rolex Prince, also known as the “Doctor’s Watch”, was first introduced in 1928. Considered one of the most precise wristwatches of its era, the Prince earned its nickname because physicians used it to measure pulse and respiration rates. As a result, Rolex actively marketed the model to professionals in the medical field. The example featured here is the Prince Brancard, distinguished by its softer, rounded profile. Another variation of the Prince, known as the Classic, features sharper and more angular lines. This particular Ref. 971 is fitted with a two-tone silver dial and is believed to have been produced in 1935. The Rolex Prince Brancard remains one of the rarest and most desirable references for collectors interested in early Rolex watches.
Rolex Montre de Dame Or
Another unconventional Rolex design is the Montre de Dame Or. Offered at auction by Christie’s, this rare Rolex features a square dial and case paired with an integrated gold bracelet finished with a distinctive brick-pattern motif. Measuring just 12 x 12 mm and weighing approximately 65 grams, the watch comes from the personal collection of world-renowned actress Claudia Cardinale.
