Istanbul’s Best Neapolitan Pizza Spots

So, what should we look for before describing a pizza as Neapolitan-style?

INGREDIENT QUALITY

Simple, fresh and high-quality ingredients are essential: dough, tomato sauce, fresh mozzarella, basil and, finally, olive oil. The original recipe calls for Italian San Marzano tomatoes in the sauce—and it is worth noting that San Marzano tomatoes are also grown in Türkiye. However, some pizzerias blend them with other varieties or use entirely different tomatoes. In Ankara, for example, several establishments, particularly Stüdyo Pizza, use Ayaş tomatoes.

These are, in fact, the ingredients of a Margherita pizza, whose colours reference the Italian flag. Another classic Neapolitan pizza is the Marinara, made with tomato sauce, dried oregano, garlic and olive oil.

As long as the principle of using high-quality and flavourful ingredients is respected, however, an almost limitless variety of pizzas can be created. In fact, you have to create them, because with so many pizzerias in the market, the easiest way to stand apart is by developing house recipes and pizzas based on original combinations of ingredients. My biggest complaint in this respect is the limited variety of charcuterie available in Türkiye and the widespread use of beef, which is generally not particularly flavourful, in cured meat products. I would like to see—and strongly support—the production of a wider variety of charcuterie made from lamb.

Another of the most important elements that defines the character of Neapolitan pizza is that its surface should be covered with more sauce than cheese. The centre is also left slightly “wet” or “moist,” allowing the sauce and cheese to blend beautifully. In general, this style of pizza is not overloaded with toppings. Thanks to the structure of Neapolitan pizza, you can cut a triangular slice with scissors, fold the moist inner section over the crust and eat it comfortably.

THE DOUGH FACTOR

Pizza dough should be kneaded by hand or with the help of a mixer operating at a low speed, and it should be stretched with the fingers. The correct flour—type 00—should be used along with yeast, water and salt; nothing other than these ingredients should be added to the dough. The defining characteristics of double-zero, or “00,” flour are its high protein content and extremely fine texture.

During my research, I came across sources highlighting different types of yeast and claiming that the dough would be better if stretched one way or absolutely fantastic if handled another. Those with a particular interest in the subject can research techniques such as Biga, Poolish and Autolyse. I do not think it is necessary to go into further detail here, but I do want to emphasise that making successful dough is genuinely difficult—as it should be. After all, the defining feature of pizza is its dough. When we take our first bite, the first things we evaluate are the style and flavour of that dough.

THE CRITICAL POINT: BAKING TEMPERATURE

The baking temperature is crucial. A pizza cooked at a very high temperature remains in the oven for no more than 90 seconds. That is why the service is fast—extremely fast. The pizza is rotated inside the oven so that every section cooks evenly. Exposure to such intense heat, between 400 and 480°C, is also expected to create delicious charred patches on certain parts of the pizza. The greatest challenge lies in preparing a good dough that can withstand these temperatures while revealing its flavour and character in such a short time.

One of the things that people unfamiliar with Neapolitan-style pizza find most surprising is the charred sections around the crust. Many assume that these marks are a mistake or that the person baking the pizza has failed to do the job properly. In fact, they are created deliberately. They give the pizza a striking appearance and stimulate the appetite. For someone like me, who even prefers a well-charred simit, they are a magnificent sight.

IT SHOULD BE CUT AT THE TABLE

While the centre of the pizza is thin, the outer crust is pillowy, swollen and filled with pockets of air. When a Neapolitan pizza arrives at your table, you will notice that it has not been sliced and is served whole. Remember the slightly “wet” centre I mentioned? That is the section that makes all the difference, and the intention is to preserve it exactly as it is. If the pizza is sliced in advance, the magic is lost. Ideally, the customer should begin with the pizza whole and be the first person to cut into it. These days, customers are often given a pair of scissors for this purpose.

Beyond this, although it is not exclusive to Neapolitan pizza, a wood-fired oven is essential for achieving the very best result. Ideally, the oven should remain lit at all times, with the fire intensified when necessary and regularly fed with wood. Baking pizza in a wood-fired oven and controlling the fire require a separate set of skills. That is why it is difficult to find pizzerias with wood-fired ovens. It is certainly possible to make very good pizza without one, but in my opinion, a wood-fired oven is necessary if you want the very best.

Finally, a word of warning. While reading customer reviews of Neapolitan-style pizzerias, I occasionally encounter the rather absurd statement: “Italian pizza isn’t like this.” This is the vague remark of someone who does not know how to formulate criticism. Before criticising pizza, you first need to research what kinds of pizza are made in which regions of Italy—and even America—and what techniques are used to make them. Once you do, you will discover that many different types of pizza exist across both Italy and the United States. There is therefore no single, generalised abstraction that can simply be called “Italian pizza.” Just as Türkiye has many different types of pide, Italy has many different styles of pizza. In my second article, I will cover places in Istanbul that make pizzas in styles other than the Neapolitan tradition.

Now it is time to introduce my favourite Neapolitan-style pizzerias in Istanbul. So, without further ado, here is my alphabetical list of these wonderful pizza spots.

GG Pizza

The name of this Yeldeğirmeni restaurant comes from the initials of the surname shared by brothers Onur and Burak Gedik. GG Pizza is one of the places that best exemplifies the idea I mentioned at the beginning of this article: standing apart from competitors through original recipes. The crust of its pizza dough, prepared using the autolyse method, is substantial, without the cloud-like quality created by large air bubbles. Overall, the dough has a strong structure that makes its presence felt on the palate. The vegetables, fruit, charcuterie, cheeses and other ingredients used on the pizzas are all of high quality.

As I mentioned, the restaurant truly shines through its original recipes. “Karides & Kadayıf,” which pays tribute to the hot starters served at traditional fish restaurants; “Şaşlık,” a pizza interpretation of kebab; “Kuru Fasulye & Pastırma” and “Musakka,” inspired by classic Turkish home cooking; and “Köfte & Piyaz,” served with tahini sauce in a nod to Antalya-style piyaz, are among the unique pizzas it has created so far.

Naturally, you may not find every one of these pizzas when you visit. GG Pizza’s menu changes seasonally. In other words, ingredients that are no longer in season and cannot be sourced at their freshest are removed, making way for recipes featuring produce suited to that particular time of year.

The small and charming Yeldeğirmeni branch, where the story first began, is not suitable for large groups and does not serve alcohol. The second branch, which later opened in Moda, is larger and more spacious and serves alcoholic drinks, particularly wine. I am certain that pizzas this original would pair beautifully with wines made from the local grapes of these lands. Şaşlık and Öküzgözü, for example.

Lou Pizza Napoletana

My number-one choice among all the pizzerias on this list is Lou Pizza in Gayrettepe. It is a true neighbourhood pizzeria, and its dough, prepared using the Biga method, ranks among my favourites. The crust is pillowy, cloud-like and inflated. Eating it is pure joy.

The restaurant uses Roma tomatoes in its sauce, and the overall quality of its ingredients is excellent. Incidentally, the tomatoes grown in Rome are the same variety as those cultivated in the San Marzano region. The interior is small, but the restaurant has a delightful garden that is ideal for relaxing during spring and summer.

A warning is useful here: this is a small place, and service stops once the dough runs out. So, should you be planning to visit close to closing time, it is wise to call ahead and check whether any dough is still available.

There are not many pizza varieties on the menu. Alongside classics such as Margherita, Marinara, Pepperoni and Funghi, there are also imaginative house creations. Luna Tartufo combines gorgonzola cream, fresh basil and onion, mushrooms, parsley, truffle oil and lemon zest. Formagica, meanwhile, is made with mozzarella, Kars Gruyère, smoked scamorza, pecorino and gorgonzola, with sweetness from honey and heat from chilli. It can only be described as a cheese lover’s dream. A truly charming place.

Nappo Pizza

Founded by Özgür Kılınçlar, Nappo is a restaurant that has spent a long time thinking seriously about Neapolitan-style pizza. Its story began in İzmir and now continues at its Kanyon and Tersane branches in Istanbul. At both locations, you can enjoy a glass of wine alongside your pizza.

Nappo is certified by the Associazione Verace Pizza Napoletana, or AVPN. Because its pizzas are made according to a defined set of guidelines, they consistently maintain the same standard. They are fine examples of Neapolitan pizza. Meat Busters, created for those with a particular love of meat, and Tartufo, whose fragrant truffle aroma immediately stimulates the appetite, are among the standout options.

Norm Pizza

Norm Pizza distinguishes itself as the only address on this list that bakes its pizzas over an oak-wood fire. It is located on a side street in Arnavutköy. This is another neighbourhood pizzeria where, should you be visiting close to closing time, it is advisable to call ahead and reserve some dough. The restaurant is small and has a beautifully designed interior.

The pizza dough is substantial and robust. Although the crust is inflated, you can still feel the dough’s strong structure as you chew. It is also worth noting that the restaurant uses sourdough. Norm Pizza blends San Marzano, Ayaş and Antalya tomatoes in its sauce and sources the ingredients used on its pizzas from high-quality suppliers. You understand that from the very first bite. The restaurant does not serve alcohol.

Another of its standout dishes is the “Panuozzo,” a warm and crispy sandwich made by folding pizza dough in half. Norm Pizza has created a selection of appealing meat and vegetarian recipes for these sandwiches. Better still, all the sauces used in the Panuozzo are made in-house.

Salepepe Tokyo Style Pizza

I first visited Salepepe, Yeldeğirmeni’s pizza bar, around two years ago, when it had only recently opened. I congratulated pizza chef Altuğ Şencan on his delicious pizzas and had the chance to chat with him.

I do not describe it as a pizza bar without reason. When you step inside, you are quite literally greeted by a bar. You sit at the counter and place your order. Salepepe is a small shop with five stools at the bar. While sitting there, you have the opportunity to watch the pizza-making process, and I must say that seeing every stage of it certainly makes you hungry. The system here works much like it does at the other establishments on this list: once the dough runs out, the shop closes.

Although it could broadly be classified as a Neapolitan pizzeria, it differentiates itself through what it calls “Tokyo Style.” For example, before the pizza goes into the oven, salt is sprinkled both onto the oven floor and over the pizza itself.

Another defining characteristic is that the crust is flattened in certain places and inflated in others. Thanks to this special stretching technique, the edges of Salepepe’s pizzas have a unique, almost undulating shape. Both the classic and more original pizzas on the menu are successful, but one creation stands apart: Jam Session.

I adore stracciatella; it is a magnificent cheese. Once it is spread over the dough, sweetened with homemade sour cherry jam and finished with fresh basil, the resulting pizza looks almost like a work of art.

Tarantella Pizza Kadıköy

This time, our pizzeria is in Moda and immediately catches the eye with its striking blue-and-white visual identity. It is a tiny shop. You can either sit at the bar inside and watch the pizza-making process or eat at one of the tables outside. And here is our usual reminder: this is another place that closes its shutters once the dough runs out.

The crusts have large air pockets and are soft and inflated. The centre of the pizza is as moist as it should be. Both the underside and the outer crust are generously covered in leopard spotting.

Among the pizzas made with San Marzano tomato sauce, the “Acı Bal Dana Pepperoni” stands out. The balance between heat and sweetness is very good. I particularly recommend sprinkling a little smoked salt over this pizza. Wine-infused and spicy salt options are also available. I found the selection of salts to be a lovely detail.

Among the pizzas made without tomato sauce, “Tarantella x World of Fungus,” served with wild mushrooms, offers an original touch.

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