In Bvlgari’s Watches and Wonders space, designed to evoke the elegance of a Roman temple, we sat down with Jonathan Brinbaum, the brand’s new Watch Director, to discuss Bvlgari’s latest innovations.
Though Brinbaum’s role in the watch department is still quite new, he’s been part of the Bvlgari family for a decade. His journey began in the perfume department, followed by a directorial role in the brand’s travel division, before returning once more to head the perfume department. Now, six months into his position as Director of Watches, he’s bringing a lifelong passion to the role—one that traces back to his childhood. We spoke with Brinbaum to hear more about his personal story and Bvlgari’s exciting new directions.
Can you tell us about your journey in the Bvlgari family?
This year marks my tenth at Bvlgari. I started in the perfume department, then moved to the travel division. After some time, I returned to lead the perfume department. Six months ago, I was appointed Director of the Watch Department. I’m truly happy to be in this role, as watches have fascinated me since I was a child. After a decade with Bvlgari, I’ve come to see the value of experiencing different departments within such a symbol-rich, well-established brand.
How did your interest in watches begin in your childhood?
Like many children, it began with my father. He wasn’t a serious collector, but he loved watches. I remember he had a Rolex with a white dial. Each year on my birthday, we’d go to a Swatch store to pick out a new watch. I was born in the early 1980s, and Swatch was incredibly popular back then. That’s when my passion for watches began, and I started collecting my first pieces. Watches have accompanied me through many phases of my life. Before I got engaged, my husband gave me a Rolex GMT Master II as a gift—one I still treasure. Now, I’m passing this passion on to my 10-year-old son. Just like my father did with me, we visit Swatch every year on his birthday to pick out a new watch.
“Now I’m passing on this passion to my 10-year-old son. Just like we did in my own childhood, we buy him a watch from Swatch every birthday.”
What is the most impressive thing about Bvlgari watches for you?
We’re the only brand that can seamlessly combine Italian design with Swiss watchmaking—that, to me, is the most impressive part. Our designs are truly unique, deeply rooted in Roman heritage, and we have the ability to develop our own movements in Neuchâtel. In the past ten years alone, we’ve created over ten movements and achieved ten world records. The ability to merge Roman inspiration with Swiss craftsmanship is a rare skill, and one that truly sets us apart.
If Bvlgari were a person, what would they be like?
Brave, highly creative, a genius, and passionate about architecture. And, of course, Roman. I find Bvlgari’s approach to luxury incredibly authentic—that authenticity is one of the things I admire most about the brand.
Watches and Wonders has added a new member to the Serpenti family. How did Aeterna come about?
Since it was first introduced in 1948, the snake has been one of Bvlgari’s most iconic and powerful symbols. Over the years, it has been reimagined in various forms and interpretations. With Tubogas, it took on a fluid, coiling form around the wrist. Now, with Aeterna, we’ve taken a new direction—a more abstract and symbolic approach. It’s a less figurative but even more modern interpretation, brought to life by Fabrizio Buonamassa. Of course, the previous versions of Serpenti remain part of our collection, but we’re thrilled to introduce this new evolution. The snake continues to inspire us endlessly, and that’s no accident. From Egypt to China, the snake has held symbolic meaning across countless world mythologies.
Let’s talk about your new record—the Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon. This year marks the 10th time you’ve set a record for thinness. What’s the secret behind this success?
The story began ten years ago with the launch of the first Finissimo. The idea was to create a stylish watch that could slip comfortably under a shirt cuff. You know, Italians are very style-conscious—shirts and jackets are part of daily life. We needed a watch that matched that sense of elegance, one that fit effortlessly under a cuff. But at the time, there wasn’t a movement on the market that could bring such a watch to life. So, we rolled up our sleeves to design the perfect movement for the thinnest possible watch. Over the years, we’ve consistently pushed the boundaries, crafting movements that have led us to break ten world records—six of which we still hold today.
For our debut at Watches and Wonders, we wanted to introduce something groundbreaking, and that’s how the Ultra Tourbillon came to be. As you mentioned, people often ask about the records, but truthfully, setting a record has never been our primary goal. We’re driven by the desire to explore new territory and turn the impossible into reality—and sometimes, that journey results in a world record.
This was your first year at the fair. How did it go?
We’re absolutely delighted to be part of Watches and Wonders. Finding the right space was essential, as we wanted to create an atmosphere reminiscent of a Roman temple. In this nearly thousand-square-meter space you see now, we achieved exactly that. In recent years, we’ve experienced great momentum in watchmaking—we’ve become one of the most dynamic brands of the last three or four years. It was important for us to participate in the fair with a space that reflected our Roman heritage and aligned with our DNA. I think we succeeded—we became the only temple at Watches and Wonders.
