Few watch brands embody the artistry and heritage of Swiss watchmaking like Audemars Piguet. Known for iconic models such as the Royal Oak, which was famously designed overnight and has dominated high watchmaking for over half a century, the brand’s 150-year legacy is a testament to craftsmanship and innovation.
Founded in 1875 in the picturesque village of Le Brassus at the foot of the Jura Mountains, Audemars Piguet owes its name to the lifelong partnership of two childhood friends, Jules Louis Audemars (1851–1918) and Edward Auguste Piguet (1853–1919). After reuniting in their early twenties, the duo decided to combine their expertise and passion for horology to create a company that remains a pinnacle of watchmaking.
Before their collaboration, Audemars specialized in crafting movements for prestigious clients such as Tiffany & Co., while Piguet honed his skills in editing and assembling movements. Their partnership was a perfect balance of technical mastery and business acumen. Jules Audemars focused on watch production, while Edward Piguet managed sales and operations. By 1881, the company officially became “Audemars Piguet & Cie”, cementing its place in horological history. During its first decade, Audemars Piguet demonstrated its commitment to complexity and precision. Between 1882 and 1892, the brand produced 1,600 watches, with over 80% featuring complications—an impressive feat that established its reputation as a leader in crafting sophisticated timepieces.
In its early years, Audemars Piguet sought to establish itself as a global player in the world of fine watchmaking. The brand’s ambition led them to exhibit at the Universal Exhibition, one of the largest and most prestigious fairs of its time. Their participation at such an event marked the beginning of their international recognition. In a relatively short period, the brand earned a loyal clientele, including members of royal families. Among the first to own an Audemars Piguet timepiece was the Shah of Iran. Today, the brand continues to adorn the wrists of royalty around the world.
“Every Audemars Piguet watch produced until 1951 was unique. In fact, between the 1930s and 1950s, only 307 chronograph wristwatches were made, making them some of the rarest watches on the market today.”
Pioneering Complicated and Compact Timepieces
Audemars Piguet’s drive for innovation was relentless. The brand set the bar for complications in watchmaking, starting with the first minute repeater wristwatch in 1892. This was only the beginning of their groundbreaking achievements. In 1899, Audemars Piguet unveiled the first “Grand Complication” pocket watch, a timepiece featuring multiple innovations, including a minute repeater, alarm, perpetual calendar, chronograph, and second hand. Throughout the early 20th century, Audemars Piguet continued to push the boundaries of what was possible. In 1925, they designed the thinnest pocket watch caliber, a feat that was followed in 1934 by the creation of the first skeletonized pocket watch. By 1946, the brand introduced the world’s thinnest wristwatch, further solidifying its reputation as a pioneer of compact and sophisticated timepieces.
Although Audemars and Piguet passed away in 1918 and 1919, respectively, their legacy lived on through their sons, Paul Louis Audemars and Paul Edward Piguet, who took over the company.
Records from the Audemars Piguet archives show that between 1892 and 1965, the production of complicated watches included 176 calendar wristwatches, 12 perpetual calendar wristwatches, 302 chronograph wristwatches, and 35-minute repeater wristwatches.
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A WORK BY GÉRALD GENTA: ROYAL OAK
Audemars Piguet navigated the Swiss watchmaking crisis of the 1970s and 80s with a bold design: the Royal Oak. Designed overnight by Swiss watch legend Gérald Genta, the first Royal Oak (5402ST) was unveiled at the Basel Fair in 1972 after two years of development. With its octagonal bezel, the Royal Oak revitalized steel watch design and marked a new chapter in high watchmaking history. Remaining in the brand’s catalog for 15 years, the first Royal Oak sold a total of 5,288 units.
A milestone for Audemars Piguet and high watchmaking, the Royal Oak has been followed by new models in various materials and designs: the Royal Oak Offshore in 1993, Royal Oak Concept in 2002, Royal Oak Concept Supersonnerie in 2016, and Royal Oak Selfwinding Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin in 2018. In 2019, the Code 11.59 collection was introduced, marking Audemars Piguet’s biggest innovation after the Royal Oak. Developed over five years, Code 11.59 was soon expanded with different materials and complex mechanisms. Former CEO François-Henry Bennahmias states that Code 11.59 represents a passionate story of dedicated watchmakers. In 2023, the Code 11.59 Universelle RD#4 was released, setting a new record as the most complicated wristwatch ever created by Audemars Piguet, with 40 functions.
ICONIC ARCHITECTURE: MUSÉE ATELIER AUDEMARS PIGUET
The Musée Atelier Audemars Piguet, designed by Danish architect Bjarke Ingels and opened in 2020, stands as one of the most remarkable watch museums with its unique architecture. Inspired by the spring in watch mechanisms, Ingels created the museum in a spiral shape. Located at the foot of the Jura Mountains in Le Brassus, the museum showcases more than 300 watches. The building is integrated into nature, with greenery on every floor, making the spiral design blend seamlessly with the surrounding landscape when viewed from above.
In 2012, Audemars Piguet introduced a new slogan: “To break the rules, you must first master them.” As the brand prepares to celebrate its 150th anniversary in 2025, it continues to push the boundaries of technique and design, drawing from its rich heritage.
