Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts Exhibition – 2: New Models

The Patek Philippe Rare Crafts Exhibition contains the most comprehensive collection ever held. The exhibition, which includes the latest models form 2021, can be visited online.

Although Patek Philippe is keeping up technological developments, it is also known that it has given particular importance to rare handcrafts since its establishment in 1839. Nowadays, the prestigious brand is showing this interest again by organizing the most extensive “Rare Handcraft Collection” ever held in its historic headquarters on Rue de Rhône 41 in Geneva. The exhibition started on June 16 and ended on June 26.

The collection includes more than 75 watches, six of them were introduced for the first time in this year. As you remember, we have mentioned about Patek Philippe Ref. 6002R-001 Sky Moon Tourbillon in the previous article, let us look through other models:

Patek Philippe Ref. 5304/301R Minute Repeater and Retrograde Perpetual Calendar

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Patek Philippe 5304/301R-001

Ref.5104 debuted as the first Patek Philippe premium watch with a transparent sapphire crystal on a semi-skeleton dial in 2016. The timepiece is in platinum case with rose gold inlays. It was followed by the Ref.5304 model inlaid with rose gold and white gold from 2014 to 2018. Now, Patek Philippe has reinterpreted this extraordinary model as an haute joaillerie in rose gold case. The bezel, lugs and foldable clasp are enhanced with 80 baguette-cut diamonds (~6.22 cts).

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Patek Philippe 5304/301R-001

Patek Philippe has been using a system since 2006 in order to display the day, month, and the leap year indicators with a transparent sapphire crystal disc.  Through the black background that positioned below the indicators, the day, month, and leap year is highly legible in white. A patented assembly process has also been developed for attaching thin sapphire crystal discs to tiny steel shafts.

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Patek Philippe 5304/301R-001 arka kısmı ve işlemeleri

The leaf-shaped black lacquered hour and minute hands in white gold also improve the looking of the movement. The steel parts with polished edges on the dial are in harmony with the glittering pink plates adorned with perlage art. The flyback date indicator has a red crescent-tipped hand on the outer edge of the dial. The perpetual calendar is combined with a minimalist moon phase indicator and seconds sub-dial at 6 o’clock. The stylized leaf motifs in white gold and the hour and minute hand motifs are in harmony with the sides of the rose gold case and the repeater. The case back with a sapphire crystal cover shows the architecture of the movement, the escapement with the brand’s rose gold logo just behind the minute repeater assembly, and the rhodium-plated pink gold micro rotor with a leaf motif.

Ref. 5374G Minute Repeater and Perpetual Calendar  

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Patek Philippe 5374G-001

When Ref. 5374P with minute repeater and perpetual calendar introduced for first time in 2016, it drew attention as a mechanical watch in a platinum with a black grand feu enamel dial. The brand now reinterprets this great complication in white gold case with a grand feu blue enamel dial.

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Patek Philippe 5374G-001

The shape of the case displays the slender and harmonious combination of curved lines. The timepiece has a concave bezel.

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Patek Philippe 5374G-001 arka kısmı

The enamel powder melted at 850 °C to achieve the deep blue color and saturated luminosity of the grand feu enamel dial is then coated by hand on the dial plate of 18-carat gold. In the next stage, small holes were drilled into the enamel, which had become extremely hard and brittle. Breguet style numbers are placed on these parts in white gold. Finally, this process was finished by the perpetual calendar displays (day, date, month, and the leap year indicator) and the placement of a 24-hour sub-dial. The white gold hands were filled with a glossy finish for legibility. The moon phase aperture is made with the champlevé technique, which dates to the Middle Ages and allows enamel and inlay to be applied by carving the surface to be treated and is framed with white gold.

The minute repeater assembly of the micro-rotor automatic caliber watch contains two cathedral-style bells that produce a resonant sound that is almost twice the diameter of the movement.

Ref. 7040/250G Rare Handcrafts Minute Repeater for Ladies

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Patek Philippe 7040/250G-001

The minute repeater Ref. 7000R-001 has been produced between 2011 to 2017, now it is replaced by a new one with a cream-colored dial and a rose gold case. The Ref. 7040/250G, which has a slightly larger diameter than the previous model, has a blue enamel dial made with handcraft of grand feu flinqué, the surface of which is painted several times, and takes its final shape at 820 degrees Celsius. The timepiece also features a diamond bezel. The case has a contemporary yet timeless and elegance style.

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Inspired by the Ref.992/137G-001 Siamese Fighting Fish pocket watch (the only one of its kind produced in 2019) with a blue dial, the gently undulating guilloche motif is all handcrafted using a pointed scraper on metal. In the next stage, the dial is covered with transparent blue enamel using the flinqué technique in order to make the engraving shine with the play of light.

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Patek Philippe 7040/250G-001

The bezel is adorned with 168 brilliant-cut Wesselton diamonds set in double row using a patented technique called Flamme®. Through this process, diamonds can capture and reflect light not only from above but also from below.

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Patek Philippe 7040/250G-001 case back

Mikro rotorlu, otomatik mekanizmalı saat, dakika tekrarlayıcı komplikasyona sahip ve eğer istenirse safir kristal cam, beyaz altın bir kapak ile değiştirilebilir. Ref. 7040/250G, sadece ince bir kasa silueti sağlayan ince yapısı (yükseklik sadece 5.05 mm) ile değil, aynı zamanda iki klasik çanın ahenkli sesiyle de dikkat çekiyor. 

Ref. 5738/51G Golden Ellipse Haut Handcraft

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Patek Philippe 5738/51G-001

The timeless design of the Golden Ellipse, a new white gold case model with a unique dial, comes with a new aesthetic value with rare handcrafts such as hand-engraved and enamel. The 18-karat gold dial plate is engraved with the champlevé technique for grand feu black enamel using. After this process, the curved ornaments are entirely hand-graved. Ref. The 5738/51G model has an ultra-thin automatic caliber 240 with micro rotor

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Patek Philippe 5738/51G-001

The similar rare handcrafts were used in a limited edition of 100 sets of platinum case watches and matching cufflinks, when the 50th anniversary of the Golden Ellipse collection in 2018. Now, the brand adds a new interpretation of this spectacular timepiece to the collection with a white gold case and delicately reworked dial decoration details to once again demonstrate its technical and aesthetic craftsmanship.

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Patek Philippe 5738/51G-001

The time can be kept in this dial with a thin “cheveu” style hour and minute hands in white gold. The crown is cabochon-cut with onyx stone.

Ref. 7118/1450G Nautilus Haute Joaillerie

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Patek Philippe 7118/1450G-001

In April 2021, Patek Philippe combined the iconic design of Nautilus with unique jewelry techniques and presented the Ref.7118/1450R in rose gold. The new design with automatic movement in white gold case. The bezel and bracelet adorned with 2553 brilliant-cut Wesselton diamonds, which called as “snowflakes”.

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Patek Philippe PP-7118/1450G-001

The dial illuminated by rows of stones set in the small raised wave pattern typical of the ladies’ Nautilus collection.

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Diamonds in different sizes are placed randomly with “snow flakes” technique and each timepiece has a unique “face”.

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Patek Philippe, PP-7118/1450G_001_DET