IWC Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 44 in Armor Gold
The perpetual calendar movements brought to life by master watchmaker Kurt Klaus in 1985 continue to inspire some of IWC’s most beautiful timepieces today. The Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 44 is one such model, blending mechanical ingenuity with aesthetic elegance.
Let’s take a step back in time: it’s the 1985 Basel Fair. That year, IWC unveiled the Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar Chronograph (Ref. 3750), a revolutionary timepiece designed by one of the century’s greatest watchmakers, Kurt Klaus. Its most significant innovation, which is a first in horology, was that all calendar indications could be adjusted solely via the crown. The movement could automatically account for months of varying lengths, add a leap day every four years, and operate without manual correction until the year 2100. This ingenious and complex mechanism became a source of inspiration for many of IWC’s subsequent creations, marking a milestone in the history of perpetual calendars.
IWC introduced its first Portugieser perpetual calendar in 2003, and over the years the collection expanded with numerous models. In 2024, the Portugieser Eternal Calendar once again captured attention, featuring a moon phase accurate for 45 million years, a timepiece that won the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève that same year. Another star from that year was the Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 44 (Ref. IW503702).
The deep black obsidian dial of the Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 44 harmonizes the infinite mechanical precision of a perpetual calendar with refined aesthetic beauty. Achieving the dial’s remarkable depth required meticulous craftsmanship: 15 layers of finely sanded and high-gloss varnish were applied to create a luminous, three-dimensional effect. At 12 o’clock, the moon phase indicator takes center stage, inspired by nautical instruments and displaying the moon as seen from both the Northern and Southern hemispheres.
Sub dials at 3, 6, and 9 o’clock indicate the power reserve, month, and day of the week, respectively. Arabic numerals, leaf-shaped hands, and other dial details are finished in gold, creating a striking contrast against the black dial and a harmonious match with the 18k Armor Gold case.
The 44.4 mm case is crafted from Armor Gold, a material significantly harder and more scratch-resistant than conventional gold. Compared with previous models, the Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 44 features a refined touch: a thinner bezel that gives the side profile an elegant, slender appearance. The sophisticated gold case is water-resistant to 50 meters.
At the heart of the watch lies the in-house Caliber 52616, a mechanical marvel composed of 385 components. It features the Pellaton winding system with zirconium oxide ceramic components, and select elements are crafted in gold. Running at 28,800 VpH, the movement offers a 7-day power reserve. The perpetual calendar automatically adjusts for months of different lengths and adds a leap day every four years.
The final touches of the Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 44 include a black calfskin strap, though a variety of other strap options are available to suit personal taste. IWC also offers additional customization, such as engraving a date or name on the case back.
For more information on the IWC Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 44, visit the official IWC website and explore the collection’s “Dune,” blue, or silver dial options.
