I’m at one of the flea markets in Berlin. Old watches, coffee cups, analog cameras, black-and-white photographs and paintings… While looking for something to decorate the walls of my new home, my eyes catch on to the mountains rising behind a giant plateau that stretches as far as I can see. I’m getting a little closer. The photo was taken in the summer. The mountain peaks are bare and there isn’t a cloud in the sky. That’s right for cycling!
Written by Gökhan Kutluer (Photographs: Gökhan Kutluer)
While Ernest Hemingway was on duty as an ambulance driver in Italy during the First World War, inspired by the nature of the country and the multitude of cyclists, he writes in his notebook: “You learn the contours of a country best on a bicycle. You’ll remember them as they were, as you pedal and sweat as you go up and down hills. Whereas, when driving a motor vehicle, you can only notice the high hills. Therefore, you cannot remember the lands you have passed through as well as you can on a bicycle.”
Italy is one of the countries that everyone who has a passion for cycling wants to visit at least once with their bike. When the climate in both the northern and central parts of the country is taken into account, Italy turns out to be a country where cycling can be done at any time of the year. In the Dolomites, staying in places such as Bergamo, Bormio, Trento, Bolzano and Cortina d’Ampezzo in the spring, summer and the first half of the autumn; In periods when the weather is relatively cold, you can enjoy both your road and mountain bikes in Tuscany and its south. At this point, it all depends on what kind of experience you want.
Northern Italy
From the Passo della Spluga, one of the numerous gateways between Switzerland and Italy, which Mussolini used to flee from the Partisans at the time, to the Passo del Brennero, which connects Austria to Italy in the northeast of the country, or the Colle della Maddalena, which connects France to Italy in the northwest. Northern Italy, which hosts many routes until Livigno is the favorite town of those who want to be as close to nature as possible, especially with mountain bikes. Livigno and its surroundings, where every detail is considered in terms of facilities and routes for Downhill enthusiasts, also hosts numerous competitions and events, especially in July and August.
Mountain passes such as Stelvio, Gavia and Mortirolo, whose names we often hear during the Giro d’Italia, are located in Bormio. If you want to stay in one place and make all your rides out of the same house or hotel, Bormio will be the right address. Bormio, which has become one of the country’s ski resorts in the winter months, is especially flocked by road cyclists in the summer, with the influence of Granfondo Stelvio Santini. Another region that can rival Bormio both in popularity and unique opportunities is Alta Badia, located right in the heart of the Dolomites. The cycling season, which starts with the Dolomites Bike Day event in mid-June, continues until mid-September, and all Airbnb and hotel alternatives are packed.
To reach all these destinations I have mentioned from Turkey, it will be sufficient to fly to the cities of Bergamo, Milan or Munich.
Tuscany
The Apennines that cut Italy vertically, or the beautiful hills among the vineyards… I can easily say that Tuscany is one of the most ideal regions of Italy in terms of both eating and drinking and relaxing away from time. A cycling holiday you will plan in this region -especially if you can coincide with a vintage- will make you very happy. During this period, which lasts from the end of August to October, I strongly recommend that you make a reservation at the holiday farms of the region, known as Agriturismo, which both organize wine tastings and offer fresh products.
The locals will also advise you on the route, as they are very interested in cycling due to L’Eroica. L’Eroica, which is essentially a kind of commemoration of the old days, is a traditional bicycle race that is run only with old bicycles on unpaved roads to fully reflect the conditions of the period. But you don’t necessarily have to ride with those bikes. By going to Gaiole in Chianti at the time of the race, namely on the first weekend of October, you will witness the festive atmosphere there and cycle through the unique Tuscan vineyards.
Gravel Bikes
In terms of routes, Tuscany is very convenient for both road and mountain bikes, just like Northern Italy. However, if I were you, I would go there with one of the bicycle models that are now known as “gravel”, because it is really enjoyable to be able to go to all the villages and towns of the region, large and small, without having to follow the roads where the cars pass.
Gravel bikes, which are slightly more comfortable compared to the geometry of traditional road bikes and give flexibility to the cyclist in terms of handling, are designed for you to spend long hours on them. With these bikes, where it is possible to ride with the same quality on both asphalt and rough ground, it is also possible to pedal for days on bike tours (bikepacking).
As someone who has been on his bike in almost every region of Italy and has done countless rides, the most valuable advice I can give you is to determine only the start, end and accommodation details of your holiday. You decide the rest, together with the Italians who can include you in the bike conversations at any time with their friendly attitudes in the region you go to, and dozens of people from other nationalities who are on holiday like you. Wait for dinners to determine where to drive the next day…
This article has been publised in Saatolog 2020-21 Issue.
