During our visit to Longines in St. Imier, we had the opportunity to sit down with Matthias Breschan, CEO of the brand, for an insightful conversation about the watchmaking industry.
Let’s start with the watch on your wrist. Which Longines model are you wearing today?
The watch I wear changes depending on my mood. Yesterday, I had a sports chronograph on my wrist; today, I’m wearing a Conquest Heritage. My favorite part of this watch is the gold medallion on the case back. This hand-engraved medallion is a symbol of elegance and precision—it’s simple, refined, and timeless. I have a particular appreciation for the Conquest Heritage collection because of its significance in our brand’s history. As you may know, until the 1950s, watch brands didn’t assign specific names to their product lines. This changed after the 1950s, and Longines was among the first to introduce named collections, launching the Conquest family in 1954.
Do you have an emotional connection with the watches you wear? How do you view the nostalgic side of watchmaking?
We all agree that today, people don’t wear watches simply to tell the time. This has actually been the case for decades, particularly for women. A hundred years ago, women wore watches as accessories, while men used them as “tool watches.” One of the most fascinating examples of the connection between watches and everyday life is the two-time pocket watch we produced for the Ottoman Empire. At that time, the Ottoman Empire measured time based on the rising and setting of the sun, but for purposes like railway transportation, a standardized time system aligned with the rest of the world was necessary. In 1908, Longines developed a pocket watch that could display two time zones—the world’s first watch with a GMT function.
What sets Longines apart from other brands in the industry?
Longines holds a distinctive position in the watchmaking world for several reasons. For example, our collections maintain a balanced ratio between men’s and women’s watches, as well as between sports and classic timepieces. Another unique aspect is our broad price range, spanning from 1,000 to 10,000 euros, making Longines accessible to a wide audience. Beyond this, our deep-rooted history serves as an endless source of inspiration. As seen in the Longines Museum, the brand has pioneered numerous innovations throughout its history. In recent years, vintage watches have gained immense popularity, making heritage an increasingly valuable asset for a watch brand.
What do you think is driving this growing interest in vintage watches?
One major factor is sustainability. People today are looking for timepieces they can wear for many years and even pass down to future generations. This is where our commitment to our heritage becomes particularly relevant. Interestingly, watchmaking is the only industry that consistently looks to the past to shape the future.
Would you say that drawing inspiration from the past has been a key strategy for Longines in recent years?
Absolutely. The growing interest in vintage watches began around seven to eight years ago, and you can see this reflected in modern watch trends. For instance, 20 years ago, Italians preferred large watches, but today they lean towards smaller diameters, around 37–38mm. We’re seeing a similar shift in the Chinese market, and there is also a noticeable appreciation for vintage watches in Turkey.
Speaking of different markets, which regions have been most important for Longines in recent years?
East China remains our top market, while the United States has seen rapid growth and is now our second-largest market. The European market and Japan are also becoming increasingly significant. Although 2024 will be a challenging year for the watch industry due to economic contractions in Hong Kong, we’ve had a positive year in terms of exports to all other countries.
You’ve opened two new boutiques in Istanbul in recent years. How do you view the Turkish market?
I would say that the watch preferences in Turkey are quite similar to those in Southern Europe. With our newly opened boutiques, we aim to bring Turkish watch enthusiasts closer to the essence of Longines, allowing them to experience the brand’s DNA firsthand.
