Have you ever noticed that the layout of a chronograph with three sub-dials resembles the face of a panda? That visual similarity has given rise to one of watchmaking’s most enduring nicknames. For decades, these distinctive dial layouts have simply been known as “panda dials.”
The panda dial owes much of its modern fame to Paul Newman’s legendary Rolex Daytona, which became one of the most expensive watches ever sold when it achieved nearly USD 17.8 million at auction in 2017. Frequently seen on the wrist of the American actor, the watch also cemented the panda dial’s status as one of the most desirable chronograph designs in watchmaking. Introduced in the 1960s, the Paul Newman Daytona has since become one of the most sought-after vintage timepieces among collectors. Let’s take a closer look at the dial design that helped shape its legacy.
While the term “panda dial” is instantly recognizable to seasoned enthusiasts, it deserves a brief explanation for newcomers. Traditionally, the name refers to a light-coloured dial, typically white or silver, paired with three contrasting black chronograph sub-dials. The nickname has nothing to do with a particular brand or model; rather, it stems from the resemblance to a panda’s face. The design itself emerged during the 1960s, when the close relationship between motorsport and watchmaking intensified. To maximize legibility during races, chronographs were designed with dark registers against bright backgrounds, giving birth to what we now call the panda dial.
Beyond their excellent readability, panda dials offer a timeless balance between vintage charm and contemporary appeal. Over the years, the concept has evolved into countless variations. Some designs place one of the sub-dials closer to the centre, while others reverse the colour scheme altogether, featuring dark dials with light-coloured registers—the style commonly referred to as the “reverse panda.” These reinterpretations have kept the panda dial fresh while preserving its unmistakable identity.
Baltic Scalegraph Classic Panda
Baltic’s Scalegraph Classic Panda pairs a matte light beige dial with three black guilloché chronograph counters. The contrast between black and beige is further enhanced by the applied hour markers, while the hands are coated with Super-LumiNova for improved legibility. Power comes from the Sellita-based Calibre SW510-M, offering a 63-hour power reserve.
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona
Rolex’s Daytona collection remains home to some of the most celebrated panda dial chronographs ever produced. Introduced at Watches and Wonders 2026, the latest Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona presents a refined interpretation of the concept with its white enamel dial. Rather than creating strong visual contrast, the chronograph counters are finished in the same colour as the main dial, resulting in a monochromatic take on the traditional panda aesthetic.
Zenith Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar Lapis Lazuli
Zenith’s Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar Lapis Lazuli combines a deep blue lapis lazuli dial with three silver chronograph counters. At 6 o’clock, the minute counter also incorporates a moon-phase display. Housed in a 38 mm stainless steel case, the watch is powered by the El Primero Calibre 3610.
Tissot PRX Automatic Chronograph
The Tissot PRX Automatic Chronograph stands out with its understated reverse panda configuration, pairing a silver-toned dial with three dark blue chronograph counters. In addition to the sub-dials at 3, 6 and 9 o’clock, the watch features a discreet date aperture between 4 and 5 o’clock. It is powered by the Valjoux Calibre A05.H31, delivering a 60-hour power reserve.
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Sport Chronograph Ultra-Cermet
The Tonda PF Sport Chronograph Ultra-Cermet combines a dark grey dial with light blue chronograph counters to create a striking sense of depth. A satin-brushed finish enhances the dial’s texture, while Blackor and 18-carat gold-plated applied hour markers reinforce its visual sophistication. The 42.5 mm case is crafted from Ultra-Cermet, Parmigiani Fleurier’s proprietary hybrid material combining ceramic and titanium. Depending on the light, the case shifts between anthracite, deep black and metallic grey tones. The watch is powered by the Calibre PF070, which offers a 65-hour power reserve.
Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch
Featuring three white sub-dials set against a black dial, the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch exemplifies the reverse panda aesthetic while delivering exceptional legibility. The minute track surrounding the dial is also rendered in white, complemented by rhodium-plated hands coated with white Super-LumiNova. Housed in a 42 mm stainless steel case, the watch is powered by the Co-Axial Master Chronometer Calibre 3861, visible through the sapphire crystal caseback.
Longines Conquest Chronograph
The Longines Conquest Chronograph pairs a black dial with silver chronograph counters, accented by vivid red details. The chronograph hands, the tip of the central seconds hand and the TACHYMETRE inscription on the bezel all feature red highlights, reinforcing the watch’s sporting character. Housed in a 42 mm stainless steel case with a matching bracelet, the watch is powered by the Calibre L898.5, offering a 59-hour power reserve.
