A True Hat Maestro: Stephen Jones

Stephen Jones is one of those rare figures who has left an indelible mark on fashion from behind the scenes. His collaborations have helped shape some of the most unforgettable collections for the world’s top fashion houses. Since the 1980s, his hats have enhanced silhouettes and completed looks that have become pivotal moments in fashion history.

The Stephen Jones: Chapeaux d’Artiste exhibition offers a deep dive into the designer’s longstanding relationship with Paris, French culture, and Parisian fashion. Jones’ creative outlook transformed when he arrived in Paris and began working with renowned fashion houses. His deep connection to the city shines through in his collections, themes, and inspirations—often paying homage to symbols of Paris, French history, the essence of the Parisian woman, and tributes to legendary French couturiers.

The exhibition boasts an impressive 400 pieces, including more than 170 hats, alongside sketches from Jones’ archives, photographs, fashion show excerpts, and 40 complete looks featuring his hats. These ensembles illustrate his enduring collaborations with some of the biggest names in fashion, most notably Christian Dior, with whom he worked for nearly 30 years. As the most “Frenchified” of British milliners, Stephen Jones’ audacious spirit and limitless creativity have made a lasting contribution to Parisian fashion, cementing his place as a true icon in the industry.

FROM LIVERPOOL TO LONDON: THE EARLY DAYS OF STEPHEN JONES

Born on May 31, 1957, in West Kirby, near Liverpool, Stephen Jones was the youngest of three children to Gordon and Margaret (Peggy) Jones. Growing up by the sea in northwest England, the ever-changing shades of gray in the sky, beaches, and seascapes left an indelible mark on his childhood and would later influence his creative work.

Jones’ artistic inclinations were nurtured by his mother, who shared her love of art and nature with him. Together, they visited the Walker Art Gallery in Liverpool, the Lady Lever Gallery in Port Sunlight, and Bodnant Garden in North Wales—fostering a sense of beauty and creativity that would later flourish in his designs. Though millinery wasn’t initially part of his career vision, hats played a significant role in his family’s life. His father’s bowler hat, his mother’s headscarves, and his grandmother’s floral Sunday service hats made the accessory a familiar presence in his upbringing.

After completing a basic art education at High Wycombe College, Jones enrolled at Saint Martin’s School of Art in London in 1976, graduating with a degree in fashion design in 1979. It was during his time at Saint Martin’s that he immersed himself in the emerging punk subculture and discovered his passion for fashion and music. With the guidance of Peter Lewis-Crown, who ran Lachasse, Jones secured an internship at the prestigious London fashion house in 1977. He spent two summers honing his skills in the hat department under the expert guidance of Shirley Hex, setting the stage for his remarkable career in millinery.

THE BLITZ CLUB

In the late 1970s, amid Britain’s economic struggles, the New Romantic movement blossomed, bringing a fresh, artistic approach to fashion and music. Unlike the rebellious edge of punk, this new subculture embraced glamour, style, and creativity, led by groups like Spandau Ballet and Visage. Steve Strange, founder of Visage, along with DJ Rusty Egan, organized iconic events at Billy’s in Soho and later at the legendary Blitz Club in Covent Garden—where the New Romantics truly came to life.

At the heart of this movement were the “Blitz Kids,” including a young Stephen Jones, fresh out of Saint Martin’s School of Art. He became part of a vibrant crowd alongside Kim Bowen, Stephen Linard, and Boy George from Culture Club. Drawing inspiration from glam-rock icons like David Bowie and Roxy Music, the New Romantic style was characterized by daring makeup, dramatic hairstyles, and avant-garde fashion. Jones, already showing a flair for millinery, designed hats for many Blitz regulars, with Kim Bowen being a key figure in the movement who frequently wore his creations. It was Steve Strange who first purchased a hat from the emerging milliner, marking the beginning of Stephen Jones’ rise within this bold, creative era.

THE BIRTH OF A HATTER

After graduating from Saint Martin’s School of Art, Stephen Jones initially set his sights on launching his career in Paris. However, after a brief stint there, he returned to England to help with the family business. By day, he delivered fruits and vegetables, but his evenings and weekends were devoted to his true passion—creating hats, particularly for Blitz Kidsmember Kim Bowen.

In 1980, Steve Strange and Princess Julia, who worked at the PX fashion boutique, introduced Jones to the store’s owners, Steph Raynor and Helen Robinson. Impressed by his talent, they offered him a spot in the boutique’s basement to open his very own hat salon. The grand opening on October 1st was a momentous occasion, attended by his family and his mentor, Shirley Hex. Over the years, Jones moved his studio and boutique to various locations—from Wardour Street in 1982 to Lexington Street, Heddon Street, and finally to 36 Great Queen Street in Covent Garden in 1995.

FROM LONDON TO PARIS

Stephen Jones’ connection to Paris began long before his fashion career. In the late 1960s, during a family vacation in Italy, his parents, Gordon and Peggy, met the Musso family from Paris. This friendship led to Stephen spending several summers in the City of Light, learning French and immersing himself in Parisian culture. Guided by Madame Musso, Jones explored Paris’ museums, design, patisseries, and even the luxury subway cars, all of which fueled his imagination and left him with an idealized vision of the city.

Though his first attempt to start a career in Paris after graduation wasn’t successful, Jones made a breakthrough in 1983, when he returned to work with fashion legends like Jean Paul Gaultier and Thierry Mugler. His talent was quickly recognized by leading fashion houses, and with the help of his assistant, Sibylle de Saint Phalle, he established himself as a sought-after milliner. Since then, Jones has regularly traveled between London and Paris, continuing to focus on his craft, even in the face of political upheavals like Brexit.

INSPIRATION: PARIS

“Even though I had visited Paris thousands of times, the myth of Paris was always stronger than reality.”

From a young age, his perception of Paris was a romanticized dream, shaped by the films and fashion magazines he devoured during his time at Saint Martin’s School of Art. When he finally arrived in Paris, it marked a pivotal moment in both his career and his artistic evolution. The city, along with French culture, became an endless well of inspiration, influencing his creative process for over 45 years.

This deep connection to Paris is evident in several of his collections, including ‘Haute Couture & Prêt-à-porter’ (Fall/Winter 2017-2018), ‘French Kiss’ (Fall/Winter 2021-2022), ‘Bonnes Vacances’ (Spring/Summer 2022), and his most recent collection, ‘A Muse à Paris’ (Fall/Winter 2024-2025). The latest collection is a tribute to Sibylle de Saint Phalle, the niece of artist Niki de Saint Phalle and Jones’ first assistant, who introduced him to the world of Parisian fashion.

A SALUTE TO PARIS’ FASHION HOUSES

In his Fall/Winter 2017-2018 collection, Haute Couture & Prêt-à-porter, Jones paid homage to the legendary couturiers of Paris, including Gabrielle Chanel, Madame Grès, Elsa Schiaparelli, Christian Dior, Hubert de Givenchy, Yves Saint Laurent, and Cristóbal Balenciaga. Jones crafted unique headpieces inspired by the iconic designs of these fashion giants, blending millinery with haute couture.

Many of these designers began their careers as milliners—Chanel, Dior, and Lanvin among them—and their collections often placed great importance on hats as part of the overall look. As Christian Dior once famously said, “It is impossible to show a collection without hats; the models would still look naked even if they wore the most beautiful dress in the world.” 

ARTISTIC INSPIRATION

Stephen Jones’ hat designs are a canvas for artistic homage, drawing inspiration from legendary figures like Alberto Giacometti, Jean Cocteau, and René Gruau—the famed illustrator whose work graced the campaigns of Christian Dior, Balmain, Balenciaga, and Rochas. Jones is known for infusing surrealist elements into his creations, crafting playful yet sophisticated hats that use unexpected objects. From shoe-shaped hats to designs that echo British flair, like Dr. Martens soles, Jones’ pieces often reference icons like Elsa Schiaparelli, blending wit with high fashion.

BONNES VACANCES!

While Paris has long been Jones’ muse, the French coastline took center stage for his Spring/Summer 2022 collection, Bonnes Vacances. Inspired by a family-kept tourist brochure, the collection celebrates France’s most charming seaside escapes—from Le Touquet to Biarritz, Nice to Deauville, and Christian Dior’s childhood haven, Granville. This breezy collection transports you to sunny vacation spots with sailor-striped berets, ribbon-trimmed straw hats, and floral-adorned designs that capture the joy and lightness of summer evenings by the sea. Each piece radiates the essence of a carefree holiday, blending nostalgic beauty with Jones’ signature artistic touch.

THE ART OF A HATTER

Beneath his Stephen Jones Millinery boutique, the designer works in a workshop where the craft of millinery is elevated to an art form, continuing the legacy of legendary hat makers like Caroline Reboux, Madame Paulette, and Gilbert Orcel. Unlike mass-produced pieces, Jones’ hats are handcrafted, often made to order or in limited batches. Each creation, primarily designed for women, is meticulously crafted using time-honored techniques such as steaming and shaping felt and straw over wooden blocks, and incorporating materials like feathers, wood, and other embellishments. Most of his creations come to life in his London atelier, with only a few felt hats shaped in a factory in Luton. Jones produces three distinct lines: Model Millinery, a high-fashion collection, and two more accessible lines—Miss Jones for women and Jones Boy for men.

Jones’ ability to tailor his designs to reflect the essence of different fashion houses is a testament to his versatility. As he puts it, “I could create the same grosgrain bow for four designers, and each would have its own unique flair. For Maria Grazia Chiuri, it’s about perfect symmetry. For Rei Kawakubo, I might wash the colors after tying the bow to give it an avant-garde twist. Thom Browne would want a touch of flamboyance, where the ends curl up playfully. And for Daniel Roseberry at Schiaparelli, the bow would be exaggerated, with one loop bigger than the other.” Each creation is a reflection of Jones’ ability to balance tradition with innovation, ensuring that every piece tells a unique story.

PARIS COLLABORATIONS

Stephen Jones made his grand entrance onto the Paris fashion scene in 1983, teaming up with luminaries like Jean Paul Gaultier and Thierry Mugler. These collaborations marked a transformative shift in his design process. No longer simply crafting accessories in isolation, Jones learned to dive deep into the creative realms of his fellow designers, embracing their perspectives and visions.In this dynamic environment, the hat became more than just an accessory; it became the punctuation mark that completed a designer’s silhouette within an entire collection. Each collaboration is a unique journey, with Jones adapting his artistry to create accessories that consistently surprise and enchant.