Here is a guide for acids that you can add to your skincare routine.
The word “acid” can be a bit intimidating when it comes to your skin care ritual. Indeed, we have become a little more conscious about skin-friendly acids in recent years. Therefore, we now regard this term more warmly and friendly. While we are trying to simplify our care steps and ingredients, it seems like a new acid is produced every day and we are getting more confused when we should be enlightened. Also, if you are unfamiliar with the subject and are a novice in the world of maintenance, things may become difficult to navigate. Where to start when it comes to acids, which ingredient to use for what? We have compiled the basic information you need to know as if we were creating a chemistry curriculum.
Let’s first understand what acids are and what they can do in general. We have been looking at the formulas of care products more frequently in the last few years, and the interest in active ingredients is increasing. But acids are not new to the world of grooming. For example, we know that Cleopatra peeled with lactic acid. Acids are active ingredients that are good for skin complaints such as texture disorders, color unevenness and signs of aging, depending on their molecular size and strength.
The majority of the acids in skin care are hydroxy acids. So AHAs and BHAs. All the popular acids you will read about, such as salicylic acid, mandelic acid and glycolic acid, are sub derivatives of this duo. There is also hyaluronic acid, but apart from those hydroxy acids – we will get to that later.
Before getting into the details, let us underline that you should consult a dermatologist to find the right products that will be good for your skin complaints and skin, and let us remind you that the purpose of this article is to provide general information.
What’s the difference between AHAs and BHAs? The difference between these acids, which both have corrosive properties, so to speak, is their solubility in oil. While AHAs are only soluble in water, BHAs are soluble in both oil and water. So, if you have oily skin, BHAs may be more effective during the cleansing phase.
Salicylic acid
While we have learned the difference between the two, let’s start with the most famous BHA: Salicylic acid. As we just said, this oil-soluble acid is perfect for acne-prone and oily skin with clogged pores. This acid, which goes deep into the pores and cleans them, also helps you get rid of excess sebum and other oils that cause acne. It is possible to find salicylic acid in almost every care product, from toner to moisturizer.
Glycolic acid
Let’s talk about AHAs. Our first guest is glycolic acid. This ingredient is found in skin conditioning or anti-aging care products and provides 360-degree care. Glycolic acid, a powerful exfoliant, smoothes the skin surface and tightens the pores while also eliminating discoloration and fine lines. We are aware, it sounds like a miracle. Then another piece of information: Glycolic acid triggers collagen production in the long term, hello tighter skin!
So what should you pay attention to when using glycolic acid? This acid is the smallest molecule among AHAs. In other words, among the acids, it is the one that goes deepest into the skin. Therefore, it is necessary to use it very effectively and carefully. It can be started with low doses, 1-2 applications per week. Frequency can be increased by observing the skin’s adaptation time and reaction.
Lactic acid
Next up is Cleopatra’s favorite, lactic acid, also an AHA. Lactic acid is one of the gentlest of the AHAs, so it is perfect for sensitive skin. It both purifies and moisturizes the skin. Its special area of use is the treatment of keratosis pilaris, also known as chicken skin. It is generally used to remove this rough texture caused by dead skin blockages in hair and hair follicles and to correct tissue inequalities in sensitive skin.
Ascorbic acid
Should we call it ascorbic acid, or would you like to reveal its real name, Vitamin C? Ascorbic acid, also an AHA, has a wide range of benefits. First of all, it is an antioxidant. It prevents free radicals from accumulating on the skin. This detail is very important because free radicals cause oxidative stress, which triggers wrinkles, sun spots and other signs of aging. Ascorbic acid, which is very good for hyperpigmentation, also supports collagen production like glycolic acid.
Kojic Acid
Another AHA: Kojic acid. Kojic acid is one of the heroes of hyperpigmentation complaints such as sunspots and melasma. It keeps under control the amino acid tyrosine, which triggers the production of the melanin hormone that gives color to the skin. With kojic acid, the original tone of the skin does not lighten, the spots that appear with excess melanin are lightened and evened out.
Mandelic Acid
It’s not enough to count AHAs, right? Mandelic acid is one of the ingredients that smoothes skin texture and improves skin quality with its exfoliant properties. This acid also has antibacterial properties. Therefore, it also helps heal acne and prevent acne formation.
Malic Acid and Tartaric Acid
We decided to get both of them out of the way. These two AHAs have larger molecules than glycolic acid and lactic acid. So they are extra sensitive. The duo gently exfoliates the skin from dead skin, improves skin texture and balances the PH level of the skin.
Ferulic Acid
There’s more, but this is the last word for now: ferulic acid, one of the AHAs. This acid obtained from plants is a very powerful antioxidant. It protects the skin against oxidative stress, increases collagen production, is good for inflammation, evens out skin blemishes and supports healthy aging of the skin. Ferulic acid is also a supporter of Vitamin C, stabilizing it and allowing it to show its full effect.
PHAs
PHAs are a relatively new group in skin care, separated from AHAs and BHAs. The most popular are gluconolactone, galactose and lactobionic acid. They are larger in molecules than AHAs and BHAs, so they are ideal for sensitive skin. Gluconolactone, which is very sensitive, lightens skin blemishes, equalizes skin tone, supports collagen production and provides antioxidant protection. Galactose, which has anti-inflammatory properties, is used to soothe irritated skin, relieve redness and moisturize dry skin. Lactobionic acid, a sugar acid, gently exfoliates the skin from dead cells and strengthens the skin barrier.
Hyaluronic Acid
Hyaluronic acid does not belong to the hydroxy acid group. It’s not corrosive either. The main benefit of this ingredient, which is one of the most well-known of the acid group, is that it keeps the skin moist and plump, thus being good for fine lines. Hyaluronic acid, a sugar molecule, is actually produced naturally in the body and keeps the skin, joints and eyes moist. This acid, which binds water to collagen, literally locks moisture into the skin, providing that plump look you want.
However, unfortunately, as we get older, hyaluronic acid production, like collagen, decreases. As the skin loses its elasticity and dries, wrinkles and fine lines begin to form. At this point, external hyaluronic acid support helps prevent your complaints. We should also point out that it is a very tame acid. Since it is not in the group of irritating acids, it can generally be used with any ingredient.
Azelaic Acid
It is not AHA, BHA or PHA, but it serves the same function: Azelaic acid is a dicarboxylic acid. It does what this popular trio does without irritating the skin. This molecule, which works both on the skin surface and deep, is good for redness, rosacea and melasma. This acid, which prevents acne formation with its antibacterial properties, also supports the purification of pores.
PHAs
PHAs are a relatively new group in skin care, separated from AHAs and BHAs. The most popular are gluconolactone, galactose and lactobionic acid. They are larger in molecules than AHAs and BHAs, so they are ideal for sensitive skin. Gluconolactone, which is very sensitive, lightens skin blemishes, equalizes skin tone, supports collagen production and provides antioxidant protection. Galactose, which has anti-inflammatory properties, is used to soothe irritated skin, relieve redness and moisturize dry skin. Lactobionic acid, a sugar acid, gently exfoliates the skin from dead cells and strengthens the skin barrier.
Hyaluronic Acid
Hyaluronic acid does not belong to the hydroxy acid group. It’s not corrosive either. The main benefit of this ingredient, which is one of the most well-known of the acid group, is that it keeps the skin moist and plump, thus being good for fine lines. Hyaluronic acid, a sugar molecule, is actually produced naturally in the body and keeps the skin, joints and eyes moist. This acid, which binds water to collagen, literally locks moisture into the skin, providing that plump look you want.
However, unfortunately, as we get older, hyaluronic acid production, like collagen, decreases. As the skin loses its elasticity and dries, wrinkles and fine lines begin to form. At this point, external hyaluronic acid support helps prevent your complaints. We should also point out that it is a very tame acid. Since it is not in the group of irritating acids, it can generally be used with any ingredient.
Azelaic Acid
It is not AHA, BHA or PHA, but it serves the same function: Azelaic acid is a dicarboxylic acid. It does what this popular trio does without irritating the skin. This molecule, which works both on the skin surface and deep, is good for redness, rosacea and melasma. This acid, which prevents acne formation with its antibacterial properties, also supports the purification of pores.
While we have listed the most popular acids, let’s briefly go over what you should pay attention to when including these ingredients in your care routine.
-Our first rule is, as we said at the beginning, if you are not sure what to use, your skin type and where to start, consult your doctor.
-Be aware of your skin type and skin needs. For example, if you have sensitive skin, you don’t want to start your acid adventure with glycolic acid.
-Start using acids slowly. Adapt the acid you will use to your ritual according to your skin type or complaint, in low concentration and 1-2 times a week.
-AHA, BHA and PHAs can make your skin more sensitive to sunlight. So don’t forget to use sunscreen.
-The area around the eyes and lips are among the areas with the most sensitive skin. If the product you have is not specifically formulated for these areas, do not use it.
-Some acids can cause skin sensitivity and dryness. So don’t forget to use moisturizer. You can also use the sandwich technique for sensitive skin: Moisturizer first, your acid serum on top, and another layer of moisturizer on top of that.
-Finally, we said put on your aprons, but do not experiment with acids. Not all content may be compatible with each other.
Hyaluronic acid is the friendliest ingredient. It is compatible and gets along well with almost every formula. If you use products containing retinol and retinoids, you should not mix AHA, BHA and PHAs. You can split the days according to your skin sensitivity, or you can separate day and night depending on the density of the product.
Using AHAs repeatedly can also irritate the skin. However, combinations made with salicylic acid can work on oily and acne-prone skin. For example, applying glycolic acid after cleaning the skin with a salicylic acid skin cleanser can help you get full efficiency from your care routine.
It is not recommended to use ascorbic acid after using exfoliant AHAs, as skin redness and sensitivity may occur. It is possible to increase the combinations, so when preparing a care routine that includes acid, it is useful to pay attention to the content, concentration, order and frequency of use of each product.
